To participate in this CAL you need the Butterfly Effect CAL 2019 kit. This is available through Yarn and Colors, SistersInStitch, Yarnplaza.com, Wollplatz.de and Wolplein.nl.

The CAL kit comes in three different colorways. From left to right: “BE-Future” designed by Tess (@crochetedbytess), “BE-Present” designed by Kela (@crochetingkay) and “BE-Past” designed by Joy (@crochetroad). Which is your favorite?

Each CAL Kit includes 22 balls of Must-have plus the exclusive Butterfly Effect CAL 2019 BAG. Lovely isn’t it?

The CAL is coming to you in 8 (!!) languages. Want to know which? Check out below:

• Arabic
• Dutch
• German
• Italian
• Korean
• Spanish
• Swedish
• US

Each translation is accessible on this page through a download link.

What items did the designers use during their journey? You can check the list below.

• CAL KIT
• 3,5 mm crochet hook
• Scissors
• Darning needle
• Tape measure
• Blocking pins
• Something to block on
• Project bag

Such a big project can’t be made by yourself. We had a lot of help and would like to use this section to thank and name them.

The Butterfly Effect CAL 2019 – How to read the pattern.

This is the US version. All other languages are downloadable on the bottom of this document.

* – Indicates repeats for the whole rnd. Find this to identify where you will start your rnd and also finish it

^ ^ – Around anything indicates that there is more explanation underneath

[ ] – Indicates small repeats. Repeat these the amount of times specified

( ) – Stitches included in parentheses are all to be made in the same stitch

, – Stitches are divided up by ”,” you should read them like this;

⭐︎ – is only used in end 41 to make sure that you don’t miss the special picto2b stitch

Ex 1.

Pattern writes: sc, 2 sc, sc,

You would crochet: sc in the first stitch, 2 sc in the second stitch, sc in the third stitch

Ex 2.

Pattern writes: sc, [2 dc, dc] x2, tr

You would crochet: sc in the first stitch, 2 dc in the second stitch, dc in the third stitch, 2 dc in the forth stitch, dc in the fifth stitch, tr in the sixth stitch

Ex 3.

Pattern writes: sc, (sc, dc, ch2, dc, sc), sc

You would crochet: sc in the first stitch, everything within the () in the second stitch, sc in the third stitch

Ex 4.

Pattern writes: dc around the next st

You should crochet: around the stitch and not in the stitch

Starting and finishing – some explanations and also some tips and tricks, do feel free to do as you see fit and see these as suggestions more than anything

I chose to cut the yarn after every rnd, even when it is used for the next rnd, this is because I do not like to sl st and ch in between rnds. I prefer invisible joins, not only for the visual but also as I think it makes the stitch count clearer.

Try to start every rnd so that you can finish it with an invisible join. For instance, if a rnd starts with a sc, attach yarn with a sl st and ch1, continue with the pattern and when you have come all the way around make an invisible join in the second stitch of the pattern so that you cover the first sl st and ch1 thus turning it into a complete sc. See below for example:

Starting with a sc = sl st, ch1 = written in pattern as sc

Starting with a hdc = sl st, ch1 = written in pattern as hdc

Starting with a dc = sl st, ch2 = written in pattern as dc

You can also start with standing stitches and cover them with an invisible join, this is down to personal preference.

For the neatest possible way cut thread and fasten after each rnd, invisible joins should help make sure that your stitch count isn’t off, but do also make sure that you are checking your stitch count after each rnd.

If you have chosen to crochet the pattern in just one colour you might not want to cut the yarn after each rnd, I still did but again that is down to personal preference!

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Downloads in other languages.

• Arabic
• Dutch
• German
• Italian – coming soon.
• Korean
• Spanish
• Swedish

The Butterfly Effect CAL 2019 – Stitch guide.

This is the US version. All other languages are downloadable on the bottom of this document.

CL – cluster

A cluster will be made up of several double or treble crochets together all made in the same stitch. When written in the pattern you can see how many dc or tr you will make, for instance:

3dcCL = 3dc

2dcCL = 2dc

3trCL = 3tr

2trCL = 2tr

You make the stitch like this:

2dcCL – 2 double crochet cluster

yarn over and insert your hook into stitch/space. Yarn over and pull up a loop. Yarn over and pull through 2 loops – there will be 2 loops on your hook. Yarn over and insert your hook into the same stitch/space. Yarn over and pull up a loop. Yarn over and pull through 2 loops. Yarn over and pull through all 3 loops on your hook.

2trCL – 2 treble crochet cluster

Yarn over twice and insert your hook into stitch/space. Yarn over and pull up a loop. (Yarn over and pull through 2 loops) twice –there will be 2 loops on your hook. Yarn over twice and insert your hook into the same stitch/space. Yarn over and pull up a loop. (Yarn over and pull through 2 loops) twice – 3 loops on your hook. Yarn over and pull through all 3 loops on your hook.

Dc2tog – double crochet two together

Two double crochets worked together over two stitches

Sc2tog – single crochet two together

Two single crochets worked together over two stitches

Tr2tog – two treble crochet together

Two treble crochets worked together over two stitches

Esc – elongated single crochet

The same as a single crochet but as it’s placed further down in the work you keep it loose and the finished stitch looks longer

Fp – front post

Front post stitches are made around the indicated stitch from the front, when possible make this around the actual post of the stitch

Bp – back post

Back post stitches are made like front post stitches but from the back, which type will be indicated like this: BPsl-st, BPsc, BPdc and so on

V – V stitch

1dc, ch2, 1dc all in the same stitch

Picot

Picots can be made in different ways. In this pattern you will use two different types of picots and also a special one marked with a ⭐︎. You will know which one to use by the number and letter next to the stitch:

Number = the number next to the picot will indicate how many chains you make

Letter = a or b will indicate which type of picot to use

a = a picot ”a” means that you sl st through the first ch

b = a picot ”b” means that you sl st through the top of the stitch underneath, in the two ”legs” that you see

Picot marked with a ⭐︎ is a picot2b but it is used to fasten the vines and tendrils (ends 40/41/42) and therefore you make it a little different. Like this: after making the ch2 you will do a sl st in the indicated st and then finish the picot as normal.

For example:

Pattern writes: picot3a

You crochet: ch3 and sl st in the first of the 3 ch’s

Pattern writes: picot2b

You crochet: ch2 and sl st through the top of the stitch underneath

Popcorn

Make 5 dc in the same stitch, remove your hook and place it in the first dc, pick up your loop and pull through, close with ch1

Toffee Popcorn

This is the same a regular popcorn, however with the small difference that you will change colour for the middle/3^rd dc. To do this as smoothly as possible, you change to your second colour before completing the 2^nd dc, and change back to your first colour before completing the 3^rd dc – then continue as normal. Cut the thread of your second colour and fasten off.

FPdc2tog – front post two double crochet together

This stitch is made just like a dc2tog but in the front post

tr3tog – three treble crochet together

This stitch is made like a dc2tog but with three trebles crochets

Dc3tog – three double crochet together

This stitch is made like a dc2tog but with three double crochets

BPdc2tog – two back post double crochet together

This stitch is made like a dc2tog but in the back post

Dc4tog – four double crochet together

This stitch is made like a dc2tog but with four double crochets

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Downloads in other languages.

• Arabic
• Dutch
• German
• Italian – coming soon.
• Korean
• Spanish
• Swedish

The Butterfly Effect CAL 2019 – Part 1.

This is the US version. All other languages are downloadable on the bottom of this document.

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With yarn A make a magic circle, ch1 and make 8 sc

rnd 1 (A) – start in any sc

[3dcCL, ch2] x8

– 8 clusters, 8 ch2-sp

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rnd 2 (B) – start around cl

[FPsc around CL, 2 sc in ch2-sp] x8

– 8 FPsc, 16 sc

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rnd 3 (C) – start in any FPsc

*hdc, 2 dc, ch2, 2 dc, hdc, sc, ch1, sc; rep from * til end

– 16 dc, 8 hdc, 8 sc, 4 ch2-sp, 4 ch1-sp

rnd 4 (D) – start in any ch1-sp

*(hdc, 2 dc, ch2, 2 dc, hdc) in ch1-sp, sk sc, BPsc in the next 3 sts, (sc, ch2, sc) in ch2-sp, BPsc in the next 3 sts, sk sc; rep from * til end

– 16 dc, 8 hdc, 8 sc, 8 ch2-sp, 24 BPsc

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rnd 5 (E) – start in any ch2-sp in between sc

*(hdc, 2 dc, picot3a, 2 dc, hdc) in the ch2-sp, sk sc, BPhdc in the next 4 sts, BPsc in the next 2 sts, (sc, ch2, sc) in the ch2-sp, BPsc in the next 2 sts, BPhdc in the next 4 sts, sk sc; rep from * til end

– 16 dc, 8 hdc, 8 sc, 16 BPsc, 32 BPhdc, 4 

For the next rnd you are only working in the marked ch2-sps from rnd 3 and 5 shown in the pictures above. The yellow stitch markers shows the ch2-sp from rnd 3; in which you are starting. The green stitch markers shows the ch2-sp from rnd 5.

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rnd 6 (D) – start in ch2-sp from rnd 3 – please note that the FPdc in this rnd are more like dc around the chains however they both look and act like FPdc’s and therefore they are written as FPdc

*FPdc around ch2-sp from rnd 3, ch4, FPdc in the same ch2-sp and place the ch4 behind the picot3a made in rnd 5, ch4, V in ch2-sp from rnd 5, ch4; rep from * til end

– 8 FPdc, 4 V sts, 8 ch4-sp

 

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rnd 8 (C) – start in any corner ch2-sp

*(2 dc, ch2, 2 dc), FPdc around CL, hdc in ch1-sp, FPhdc around CL, 6 sc around ch4-sp, FPsc around FPsc, 3 sc around ch3-sp, FPsc around FPsc, 6 sc around ch4-sp, FPhdc around CL, hdc in ch1-sp, FPdc around CL; rep from * til end

per side – 4 dc, 15 sc, 2 FPdc, ch2-sp, 2 hdc, 2 FPhdc, 2 FPsc  

 

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rnd 9 (E) – start in any corner ch2-sp

*(hdc, ch2, hdc), BPdc in next 4 sts, sk FPhdc, BPdc in the next 6 sts, sk FPsc, BPdc, sk sc, dc in picot3a from rnd 5, BPdc, sk FPsc, BPdc in the next 6 sts, sk FPhdc, BPdc in the next 4 sts; rep from * til end

per side – 2 hdc, ch2-sp, 1 dc, 22 BPdc

 

rnd 10 (D) – start in any corner ch2-sp

*(hdc, dc, ch2, dc, hdc), sc in the next 8 sts (be careful to not skip the first hidden stitch), hdc, FPtr around the FPdc from rnd 6, sk BPdc, dc, 3 dc, (dc, picot3a, dc), 3 dc, dc, FPtr around FPdc from rnd 6, sk BPdc, hdc, sc in the next 8 sts; rep from * til end

per side – 4 hdc, 12 dc, 16 sc, ch2-sp, picot3a, 2 FPtr

 

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rnd 11 (B) – start in any corner ch2-sp

*(2 dc, ch2, 2 dc), BPdc, BPhdc, BPsc in the next 8 sts, ch1, sk 2 sts that is the hdc and FPtr, BPsc, BPhdc, BPdc in the next 3 sts, sk picot3a, BPdc in the next 3 sts, BPhdc, BPsc, ch1, sk 2 sts, BPsc in the next 8 sts, BPhdc, BPdc; rep from * til end

per side – 8 BPdc, 4 BPhdc, 18 BPsc, 4dc, 2 ch1-sp, 1 ch2-sp  

rnd 12 (A) – start in any corner ch2-sp -in this rnd you will only crochet in the chain spaces and skip all stitches-

*(2dcCL, ch1, 2dcCL, ch2, 2dcCL, ch1, 2dcCL), ch6, (2dcCL, ch1, 2dcCL) in ch1-sp, ch5, (2dcCL, ch1, 2dcCL) in ch1-sp, ch6; rep from * til end

per side – 8 2dcCL, 4 ch1-sp, 2 ch6-sp, 1 ch5-sp, 1 ch2-sp

rnd 13 (C) – start in any corner ch2-sp

*(2 dc, 1 tr, ch2, 1 tr, 2 dc), FPdc around CL, dc in ch-sp, FPdc around CL, (4 dc, tr, ch1, tr, 4 dc) in ch6-sp, FPdc around CL, dc in ch-sp, FPdc around CL,

Please note that now you will crochet in rnd 11 and in the ch5 on the back from rnd 12 ( although not at the same time)

sk 2 sts, BPsc in rnd 11, [dc in ch5, BPdc in rnd 11] x 2, (tr, picot3a, tr) in ch5, [BPdc in rnd 11, dc in ch5] x 2, BPsc in rnd 11, sk 2 sts

Please note that you are now back crocheting in rnd 12

FPdc around CL, dc in ch-sp, FPdc around CL, (4 dc, tr, ch1, tr, 4 dc) in ch6-sp, FPdc around CL, dc in ch-sp, FPdc around CL; rep from * til end

per side – 8 FPdc, 28 dc, 8 tr, 2 BPsc, 4 BPdc, 1 picot3a, 2 ch1-sp, 1 ch2-sp

 

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rnd 14 (C) – start in any corner ch2-sp -this rnd will create ch-sps on the back of your work which you will crochet in later-

*(sl st, ch3, sl st), ch3, sk st, BPsl-st, [ch2, sk 2 sts, BPsl-st] x3, ch2, sk ch1-sp, BPsl-st, [ch2, sk 2 sts, BPsl-st] x 2,

you should now be in the dc in between the 2 CL just before the middle of the rnd

ch2, sk 4 sts, BPsl-st, ch3, sk 4 sts and picot3a, BPsl-st, ch2, sk 4 sts, BPsl-st, [ch2, sk 2 sts, BPsl-st] x 2, ch2, sk ch1-sp, BPsl-st, [ch2, sk 2 sts, BPsl-st] x3, ch3, sk st; rep from * til end

per side – 16 BPsl-st, 14 ch2-sp, 4 ch3-sp

 

 

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rnd 15 (F) – start in first ch2-sp before a corner as you will start making your corner from here -only work in the ch-sps made in rnd 14 unless clearly stated – they will be underlined for extra clarification-

*(sl st, ch2, dc, tr), connect this ch2-sp and the next ch3-sp with a dc2tog, (hdc, sc, 3 hdc), FPsc around sl st between chs, (3 hdc, dc, 3 hdc), FPsc around sl st between chs, (3 hdc, sc, hdc), connect this ch3-sp and the next ch2-sp with a dc2tog, (tr, dc, ch2, sl st), this will be your corner made!

[3 sc in ch2-sp] x5, (2 dc,  hdc, sc), (sc, hdc, dc, ch1, dc, hdc, sc), (sc, hdc, 2 dc), [3 sc in ch2-sp] x 5; rep from * til end

per side – 2 sl st, 2 ch2-sp, 9 dc, 2 tr, 2 dc2tog, 18 hdc, 36 sc, 2 FPsc, 1 ch1-sp

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rnd 16 (E and for the toffee popcorn also A) – start on the back around the first corner sl st from rnd 14

*BPsl-st, ch3, push the corner to the back and crochet around it in the ch2 corner from rnd 13, make toffee popcorn with yarn A in the middle, ch3, BPsl-st around the second corner sl st from rnd 14, ch5, sl st in the 1st of the 15 sc and place the ch5 behind your work, [picot3a, sl st, sl st] x3, picot6a, sk sc, [sl st, sl st, picot3a] x3, sl st, ch3, BPsl-st around sl st before the ch3 from rnd 14, ch4, toffee popcorn between BPdc 3 and 4 worked in rnd 11, ch4, BPsl-st around sl st after ch3 from rnd 14, ch3, sl st in 1st of the 15 sc, [picot3a, sl st, sl st] x3, picot6a, sk sc, [sl st, sl st, picot3a] x3, sl st, ch5; rep from * til end

per side – 4 ch3-sp, 2 ch5-sp, 12 picot3a, 2 picot6a, 2 toffee popcorn, 2 ch4-sp, 4 BPsl-st, 28 sl st

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rnd 17 (F) – in this rnd you will only crochet in rnd 15 and skipping all of the sts from rnd 16 EXCEPT the corner toffee popcorn where you will crochet around the ch3 AND the sts from rnd 15, start in the ch2-sp leading up to your corner from rnd 15. If you are having trouble locating it is the ch2 you started rnd 15 with! –

*(2 hdc, dc, picot2b) in ch2-sp, dc, hdc, esc around dc2tog, hdc in next 2 sts, (dc, picot2b, dc), hdc, sc, sk st (that is the FPsc)

You should now be before the ch3, you will crochet around both the ch3 AND in the stitches

sl st, hdc, dc,

^^the following () is to be crocheted in just one st but around 2 chs (not at the same time), you will start in the st and around the ch3 you are already in, then making a FPdc around the toffee popcorn, and continuing still in the same st and around the next ch3^^

(2 dc, FPdc around toffee popcorn, picot2b, 2 dc), dc, hdc, sl st, sk st, sc, hdc, (dc, picot2b, dc), hdc in next 2 sts, esc around dc2tog, hdc, (dc, picot2b) (dc, 2 hdc) in ch2-sp, sl st in bl behind the 1st picot3a

 

Corner leaf bunch done!

 

^^For this part you will be crocheting in front of the picot rnd from rnd 16. When you are done you will pull the picots through the spaces made making them pop up like little flower buds. You will be working FPdc2tog in front of them and small chains to go behind them creating the spaces mentioned. If you look at this section you should clearly see gaps in between the chains you made from rnd 14 that were attached to your work with BPsl-st, and these are the ones that you will place your FPdc2tog around EXCEPT for the one in front of the picot6a which is placed in the ch1-sp from rnd 13. There are six of these places, just like there are six picot3a, so in the pattern the 1st one will be in front of the 1st picot3a. ^^

ch1, FPdc in front of 1st picot3a, ch2, FPdc2tog in front of 1st AND 2nd picot3a, ch2, FPdc2tog in front of 2nd AND 3rd picot3a, ch2, FPdc2tog in front of 3rd picot3a AND in the ch1-sp in front of picot6a, ch3, FPdc2tog in the ch1-sp in front of picot6a AND in front of the 4th picot3a, ch2, FPdc2tog in front of 4th AND 5th picot3a, ch2, FPdc2tog in front of 5th AND 6th picot3a, ch2, FPdc in front of the 6th picot3a, ch1, sl st in bl behind the 6th picot3a

 

Flowerbud section to the right done!

 

(sc, 2dc, picot2b, hdc), hdc in next 2 sts, sc

Now you will jump over the ch4 and crochet over it, so it will come through your work when you are done. You might need to push it a little to the side to reach to the next stitch

sl st, 2 hdc in each of the next 2 sts, (dc, ch2, dc) in ch1-sp, 2 hdc in each of the next 2 sts, sl st,

Again you will be crocheting over the ch4

sc, hdc in the next 2 sts, (hdc, dc, picot2b, dc, sc), sl st in bl behind picot3a

 

Middle leaf bunch done!

 

ch1, FPdc in front of 1st picot3a, ch2, FPdc2tog in front of 1st AND 2nd picot3a, ch2, FPdc2tog in front of 2nd AND 3rd picot3a, ch2, FPdc2tog in front of 3rd picot3a AND in the ch1-sp in front of picot6a, ch3, FPdc2tog in the ch1-sp in front of picot6a AND in front of the 4th picot3a, ch2, FPdc2tog in front of 4th AND 5th picot3a, ch2, FPdc2tog in front of 5th AND 6th picot3a, ch2, FPdc in front of the 6th picot3a, ch1, sl st in bl behind the 6th picot3a

 

Flowerbud section to the left done!

 

Rep from * til end
per side –5 ch1-sp, 26 hdc, 21 dc, 7 picot2b, 2 esc, 6 sc, 8 sl-st, 3 FPdc, 13 ch2-sp, 12 FPdc2tog, 2 ch3-sp,

 

 You are finished, well done! 

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Crochet Chart

 

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Downloads in other languages.

• Arabic
• Dutch
• German
• Italian
• Korean
• Spanish
• Swedish

The Butterfly Effect CAL 2019 – Part 2.

This is the US version. All other languages are downloadable on the bottom of this document.

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rnd 19 (B) – start in any corner ch3-sp

*(2 sc, ch2, 2 sc), sc in the next 7 sts, sc in the ch-sp,

For the flowered section you will crochet in the sc on top of the picot and in the ch-sp behind the picot from rnd 17 and skip the ch-sp between the sc:

[sc, dc in ch-sp] x 3, sk ch2, in sc on top of the picot6a do the following (sc, (dc, ch2, dc) in ch-sp behind, sc), sk ch2, [dc in ch-sp, sc] x 3,

After the flowered section you are back to crocheting in rnd 18 again, starting in the ch-sp

sc, sc in the next 4 sts, sc in ch-sp, (sc, ch2, sc) in the sc catching the picot, sc in ch-sp, sc in the next 4 sts, sc in ch-sp,

You should be at the second flower bud section at this point:

[sc, dc in ch-sp] x 3, sk ch2, (sc, (dc, ch2, dc) in ch-sp behind, sc) in sc on top of the picot6a, sk ch2, [dc in ch-sp, sc] x 3,

sc in ch-sp, sc in the next 7 sts; rep from * til end

per side –50 sc, 16 dc, 4 ch2-sp

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rnd 20 (E) – start in any corner ch2-sp

*(3 dc, ch2, 3 dc), sk 2 sts, BPdc in the next 6 sts, BPhdc, BPsc, ch2, sk 8 sts, (2dcCL, ch2, 2dcCL) in ch2-sp, ch2, sk 8 sts, BPsc in the next 7 sts, (sc, ch2, sc) in ch2-sp, BPsc in the 7 sts, ch1 and turn your work around

From wrong side

sc in next 5 sts, sl st in the next 2 sts, sk 1 st, sl st in ch2, ch1, sk 1 st, sl st in the next 2 sts, sc in the next 5 sts, ch1 and turn your work again

From right side

hdc, dc, 2 dc, hdc, sc, sk 2 sl sts, (3 dc, ch2, 3 dc) around ch2-sp from beginning of rnd 20, sk 2 sl sts, sc, hdc, 2dc, dc, (hdc, sl st), sl st below around the last BPsc to bring it down to same level like the other side, ch2,

Sk 8 sts, (2dcCL, ch2, 2dcCL) in ch2-sp, ch2, sk 8 sts, BPsc, BPhdc, BPdc in the next 6 sts, sk 2 sts; rep from * til end

per side –4 2dcCL, 8 ch2-sp, 18 dc, 4 hdc, 2 sc, 12 BPdc, 2 BPhdc, 2 BPsc (only including the top stitches)

 

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rnd 21 (D) – start in any corner ch2-sp

*(dc, tr, ch2, tr, dc), BPdc in the next 3 sts, BPhdc in the next 7 sts, BPsc, 3 sc in ch2-sp, FPsc around CL, (sc, ch2, sc) in ch-sp, FPsc around CL, 3 sc in the ch2-sp,

BPsc in the next 5 sts starting in the hdc, sk st, FPtr around ch2-sp from rnd 17, BPsc in the next 3 sts, (sc, dc, ch2, dc, sc) in ch-sp, BPsc in the next 3 sts, FPtr around ch2-sp from rnd 17 made in colour F, sk st, BPsc in the next 5 sts,

3 sc in ch2-sp, FPsc around CL, (sc, ch2, sc) in ch-sp, FPsc around CL, 3 sc in the ch2-sp, BPsc, BPhdc in the next 7 sts, BPdc in the next 3 sts; rep from * til end

per side –18 sc, 4 dc, 2tr, 6 BPdc, 14 BPhdc, 18 BPsc, 2 FPtr, 4 FPsc, 4 ch2-sp

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rnd 24 (D) – start in any corner ch2-sp

*(2 hdc, ch2, 2 hdc), BPsc in the next 6 sts, BPdc in the next 6 sts, sc in the next 4 sts, sc in next st AND in 11^th st from rnd 21 directly underneath going through the st from rnd 21 first, sc in the next 2 sts, sc in ch4, sc in rnd 21 behind your work in the st just before the CL sts from rnd 22, sc in the st directly after the CL sts in the same rnd,

Now jump up to the 6hdc ch-sp before the mid of the side

BPsc, BPhdc, BPdc in the next 3 sts, BPhdc, BPsc in the next 9 sts, (sc, ch2, sc) in ch-sp, BPsc in the next 9 sts, BPhdc, BPdc in the next 3 sts, BPhdc, BPsc, sc in the st before the CL sts in rnd 22, sc in the st directly after the CL sts in the same rnd,

Now jump back up to rnd 23, start in the 1^st of the 13 hdc in the ch9-sp

sc in the next 2 sts, sc in 11^th st from the corner in rnd 21 AND in the next st in rnd 23, sc in the next 4 sts, BPdc in the next 6 sts, BPsc in the next 6 sts; rep from * til end

per side –4 hdc, 32 BPsc, 4 BPhdc, 18 BPdc, 21 sc, 2 ch2,

 

You are finished, well done! 

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Crochet Chart

 

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Downloads in other languages.

• Arabic – coming soon.
• Dutch
• German
• Italian
• Korean
• Spanish
• Swedish

The Butterfly Effect CAL 2019 – Part 4.

This is the US version. All other languages are downloadable on the bottom of this document.

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rnd 29 (A) – start making your corner which will be made behind your work over 2 chain spaces found on each side of the the middle 2dcCL from rnd 27

*(2trCL, ch1, 2trCL) in ch-sp, ch2, sk st, (2trCL, ch1, 2trCL) in ch-sp, ch12, (2 dc, hdc, 2 sc, sc in picot2b from previous rnd and in the ch-sp, 4 sc) in ch6-sp, ch5, FPdc around FPsc, ch2, (2dcCL, ch1, 2dcCL, ch1, 2dcCL, ch1, 2dcCL) in ch3-sp, ch5, (2dcCL, ch1, 2dcCL, ch2, 2dcCL, ch1, 2dcCL) in ch1-sp, ch5, (2dcCL, ch1, 2dcCL, ch1, 2dcCL, ch1, 2dcCL) in ch3-sp, ch2, FPdc around FPsc, ch5, (4 sc, sc in picot2b from previous rnd and the ch-sp, 2 sc, hdc, 2 dc) in ch6-sp, ch12; rep from * til end

per side – 12 2trCL, 6 ch1-sp, 2 ch12-sp, 5 ch2-sp, 7 dc, 2 hdc, 9 sc, 3 ch5-sp, 2 FPdc

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rnd 30 (B) – start in any corner

*(2 dc, tr, ch2, tr, 2 dc), FPdc around CL, dc in ch-sp, FPdc around CL, (8 hdc, dc, ch1, dc, 8 hdc) in ch12-sp, tr in the next 2 sts, (tr, picot2b, tr), dc, hdc, sc in the next 4 sts, (hdc, 2 dc), 7 hdc around ch5-sp, FPhdc around FPdc, 3 hdc in ch2-sp, [FPhdc around CL, hdc in ch1-sp] x3, FPhdc around CL, (4 hdc, FPtr around the FPsc from rnd 28, 4 hdc) in ch5-sp, FPdc around CL, dc in ch-sp, FPdc around CL,

(dc, tr, ch1, tr, dc) in ch2-sp, FPdc around CL, dc in ch-sp, FPdc around CL, (4 hdc, FPtr around the FPsc from rnd 28, 4 hdc) in ch5-sp, [FPhdc around CL, hdc in ch1-sp] x3, FPhdc around CL, 3 hdc in ch2-sp, FPhdc around FPdc, 7 hdc around ch5-sp, (2 dc, hdc), sc in the next 4 sts, hdc, dc, (tr, picot2b, tr), tr in the next 2 sts, (8 hdc, dc, ch1, dc, 8 hdc) in ch12-sp, FPdc around CL, dc around ch1-sp, FPdc around CL; rep from * til end

per side – 20 dc, 12 tr, 2 ch2-sp, 8 FPdc, 78 hdc, 3 ch1-sp, 2 picot2b, 8 sc, 10 FPhdc, 2 FPtr

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rnd 31 (C) – start in any corner

*(3 tr, ch3, 3 tr), [2 tr, tr in the next 2 sts] x2, 2 dc in the next 2 sts, 2 hdc, sc in the next 6 sts, sl st through ch-sp and picot2b coming up – place a stitch marker in the st just after the picot2b as it might be hard to locate after the sl st is made – sc in the next 4 sts, FPsc around the 2^nd FPsc from the corner end of rnd 28 AND in the next st, sc in the next 7 sts, now continue where you placed the stitch marker – sc in the next 6 sts, BPsc in the next 4 sts, sc in the hdc (in the first 2trCL from rnd 27) from rnd 28 AND in the next st in the current rnd, sc in the next 2 sts, hdc in the next 2 sts, 2 dc, 2 tr around the next st, ch3, FPsc around the FPhdc, BPsc in the next 14 sts, FPsc around the FPtr, BPhdc in the next 3 sts, BPdc in the next 3 sts, BPtr in the next 3 sts,

(tr, dtr, ch3, dtr, tr) in ch-sp, BPtr in the next 3 sts, BPdc in the next 3 sts, BPhdc in the next 3 sts, FPsc around the FPtr, BPsc in the next 14 sts, FPsc around the FPhdc, ch3, 2 tr around the next st, 2 dc, hdc in the next 2 sts, sc in the next 2 sts, sc in the 8^th st (hdc) from rnd 28 counted after the FPsc AND in the next st, BPsc in the next 4 sts, sc in the next 6 sts, sk picot2b and push it to the back of your work and continue in the next st, sc in the next 7 sts, fpsc around the first FPsc from the corner start of rnd 28 AND in the next st, sc in the next 4 sts, turn back and pick up the picot2b and the ch1-sp and sl st through both of them, sc in the next 6 sts, 2 hdc, 2 dc in the next 2 sts, [tr in the next 2 sts, 2 tr] x2; rep from * til end

per side – 28 tr, 4 ch3-sp, 12 dc, 8 hdc, 2 sl st, 56 sc, 36 BPsc, 4 FPsc, 6 BPhdc, 6 BPdc, 6 BPtr, 2 dtr

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rnd 32 (D) – start in any corner

*(sc, hdc, dc, ch2, dc, hdc, sc), BPdc in the next 8 sts, BPhdc in the next 4 sts, BPsc, ch3, sk 4 sts, sc in the next 6 sts, sk 13 sts or the little mini cocoon made in previous rnd, sc in the next 6 sts, your next st should be the BPsc, hdc, (hdc, dc), 3 dc, (dc, hdc), FPsc, sk st, hdc, 2 dc in the next 3 sts, 2 tr in the next 2 sts, picot2b, (tr, dc), (hdc, 2 sc) in the ch3-sp, FPsc around FPsc, sk 1 st, BPsc in the next 10 sts,

  The next part is tricky so pay close attention:

in the next st you will do a sc2tog with this st and (sk 5 sts) the next one (i.e. there will be 5 skipped sts in between), now do a sc2tog in the 2 sts that end up next to each other going down toward the fp sts, sk the next 2 sts, FPsc around FPsc

ch10, sk the 8 unworked sts and in top ch-sp make (2 sc, ch2, 2 sc), ch10, sk 11 sts

  Again this part is tricky but in reverse so pay close attention:

FPsc around FPsc, now you’re crocheting the two sides together, sk 1 st on each side, sc2tog in the next 2 sts that end up next to each other when pushing the sides together, sc2tog in the next 2 sts again next to each other, BPsc in the next 10 sts, sk st, FPsc, (2 sc, hdc) in ch3-sp, (dc, tr, picot2b), 2 tr in the next 2 sts, 2 dc in the next 3 sts, hdc, sk st, FPsc, (hdc, dc), 3 dc, (dc, hdc), hdc, sc in the next 6 sts, sk 13 sts or the little mini cocoon made in previous rnd, sc in the next 6 sts, ch3, sk 4 sts, BPsc, BPhdc in the next 4 sts, BPdc in the next 8 sts; rep from * til end   

per side – 36 sc, 14 hdc, 26 dc, 2 ch2, 16 BPdc, 8 BPhdc, 22 BPsc, 2 ch3, 6 FPsc, 10 tr, 2 picot2b, 4 sc2tog, 2 ch10-sp

*********************************************

rnd 33 (E) – start in any corner

*(hdc, dc, tr, ch2, tr, dc, hdc), sc in the next 16 sts, sc in ch3-sp, sc in the 2 middle sts of the 4 unworked sts from rnd 31 i.e skipping the 1^st and the 4^th, sc in the next 16 sts, (dc, picot2b, dc), hdc, sc in the next 2 sts, FPsc around FPsc, sk st, sc in the next 10 sts, BPdc around the last worked st, sk picot from previous rnd, BPdc, picot2b, sc in the next 4 sts, FPsc around FPsc, sk st, sc in the next 9 sts, dc3tog finishing in the FPsc,

now you will work up the middle in sts from rnd 31 leaving the ch from rnd 32 alone

tr in the next 2 sts, dc in the next 6 sts,  sk the 2 sc from rnd 32,

(4 dc, ch2, 4 dc) in ch2-sp from rnd 32, sk the 2 sc from rnd 32, dc in the next 6 sts, tr in the next 2 sts, dc3tog starting in the FPsc, sc in the next 10 sts, FPsc, sk st, sc in the next 3 sts, picot2b, sk picot from previous rnd, BPdc in the next 2 sts, sc in the last worked st, sc in the next 10 sts, FPsc, sc in the next 2 sts, hdc, (dc, picot2b, dc), sc in the next 16 sts, sc in the 2 middle sts of the 4 unworked sts from rnd 31 i.e skipping the 1^st and 4^th, sc in ch3-sp, sc in the next 16 sts; rep from * til end

per side – 4 hdc, 26 dc, 6 tr, 2 ch2-sp, 121 sc, 4 picot2b, 4 FPsc, 4 BPdc, 2 3dctog

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