THE BUTTERFLY EFFECT CAL 2019
— Brought to you by SistersInStitch and Yarn and Colors —
“From deep within the soul and somewhere in the heart, there was the tiniest of rumbles and a million tiny sparks. Turning nothing into something this was only just the start, and when it was all finished it split up into ten different parts.”
The Butterfly Effect Legend
EVERYTHING ABOUT THE BUTTERFLY EFFECT CAL.
Early 2018 we were approached by Kela from @Crochetingkay. She asked us if we wanted to host a CAL together with her and Tess, together SistersInStitch (@sistersinstitch). After seeing the first few rounds we were amazed. The answer just had to be yes.
The outcome of hours and hours of work is The Butterfly Effect CAL 2019. The combination of talented designers, our Must-have yarn, different stitches and the art of negative space result in this gorgeous squared blanket. The project is divided into 10 parts and runs for as many weeks; starting in January and ending in March 2019.
We rated this pattern as easy. Especially with the step-by-step pictures and video toturials that are provided each week. Want to know more about our CAL together with SistersInStitch? Or looking for the pattern in your language? We got it.
The CAL kits.
To participate in this CAL you need the Butterfly Effect CAL 2019 kit. This is available through Yarn and Colors, SistersInStitch, Yarnplaza.com, Wollplatz.de and Wolplein.nl.
The CAL kit comes in three different colorways. From left to right: “BE-Future” designed by Tess (@crochetedbytess), “BE-Present” designed by Kela (@crochetingkay) and “BE-Past” designed by Joy (@crochetroad). Which is your favorite?
Each CAL Kit includes 22 balls of Must-have plus the exclusive Butterfly Effect CAL 2019 BAG. Lovely isn’t it?
The translations.
The CAL is coming to you in 8 (!!) languages. Want to know which? Check out below:
- Arabic
- Dutch
- German
- Italian
- Korean
- Spanish
- Swedish
- US
Each translation is accessible on this page through a download link.
The accessories.
What items did the designers use during their journey? You can check the list below.
- 3,5 mm crochet hook
- Scissors
- Darning needle
- Tape measure
- Blocking pins
- Something to block on
- Project bag
Everyone involved.
Such a big project can’t be made by yourself. We had a lot of help and would like to use this section to thank and name them.
The Butterfly Effect 2019 pattern.
Notes on the pattern.
The Butterfly Effect CAL 2019 – How to read the pattern.
This is the US version. All other languages are downloadable on the bottom of this document.
* – Indicates repeats for the whole rnd. Find this to identify where you will start your rnd and also finish it
^ ^ – Around anything indicates that there is more explanation underneath
[ ] – Indicates small repeats. Repeat these the amount of times specified
( ) – Stitches included in parentheses are all to be made in the same stitch
, – Stitches are divided up by ”,” you should read them like this;
⭐︎ – is only used in end 41 to make sure that you don’t miss the special picto2b stitch
Ex 1.
Pattern writes: sc, 2 sc, sc,
You would crochet: sc in the first stitch, 2 sc in the second stitch, sc in the third stitch
Ex 2.
Pattern writes: sc, [2 dc, dc] x2, tr
You would crochet: sc in the first stitch, 2 dc in the second stitch, dc in the third stitch, 2 dc in the forth stitch, dc in the fifth stitch, tr in the sixth stitch
Ex 3.
Pattern writes: sc, (sc, dc, ch2, dc, sc), sc
You would crochet: sc in the first stitch, everything within the () in the second stitch, sc in the third stitch
Ex 4.
Pattern writes: dc around the next st
You should crochet: around the stitch and not in the stitch
Starting and finishing – some explanations and also some tips and tricks, do feel free to do as you see fit and see these as suggestions more than anything
I chose to cut the yarn after every rnd, even when it is used for the next rnd, this is because I do not like to sl st and ch in between rnds. I prefer invisible joins, not only for the visual but also as I think it makes the stitch count clearer.
Try to start every rnd so that you can finish it with an invisible join. For instance, if a rnd starts with a sc, attach yarn with a sl st and ch1, continue with the pattern and when you have come all the way around make an invisible join in the second stitch of the pattern so that you cover the first sl st and ch1 thus turning it into a complete sc. See below for example:
Starting with a sc = sl st, ch1 = written in pattern as sc
Starting with a hdc = sl st, ch1 = written in pattern as hdc
Starting with a dc = sl st, ch2 = written in pattern as dc
You can also start with standing stitches and cover them with an invisible join, this is down to personal preference.
For the neatest possible way cut thread and fasten after each rnd, invisible joins should help make sure that your stitch count isn’t off, but do also make sure that you are checking your stitch count after each rnd.
If you have chosen to crochet the pattern in just one colour you might not want to cut the yarn after each rnd, I still did but again that is down to personal preference!
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Downloads in other languages.
Stitch guide.
The Butterfly Effect CAL 2019 – Stitch guide.
This is the US version. All other languages are downloadable on the bottom of this document.
CL – cluster
A cluster will be made up of several double or treble crochets together all made in the same stitch. When written in the pattern you can see how many dc or tr you will make, for instance:
3dcCL = 3dc
2dcCL = 2dc
3trCL = 3tr
2trCL = 2tr
You make the stitch like this:
2dcCL – 2 double crochet cluster
yarn over and insert your hook into stitch/space. Yarn over and pull up a loop. Yarn over and pull through 2 loops – there will be 2 loops on your hook. Yarn over and insert your hook into the same stitch/space. Yarn over and pull up a loop. Yarn over and pull through 2 loops. Yarn over and pull through all 3 loops on your hook.
2trCL – 2 treble crochet cluster
Yarn over twice and insert your hook into stitch/space. Yarn over and pull up a loop. (Yarn over and pull through 2 loops) twice –there will be 2 loops on your hook. Yarn over twice and insert your hook into the same stitch/space. Yarn over and pull up a loop. (Yarn over and pull through 2 loops) twice – 3 loops on your hook. Yarn over and pull through all 3 loops on your hook.
Dc2tog – double crochet two together
Two double crochets worked together over two stitches
Sc2tog – single crochet two together
Two single crochets worked together over two stitches
Tr2tog – two treble crochet together
Two treble crochets worked together over two stitches
Esc – elongated single crochet
The same as a single crochet but as it’s placed further down in the work you keep it loose and the finished stitch looks longer
Fp – front post
Front post stitches are made around the indicated stitch from the front, when possible make this around the actual post of the stitch
Bp – back post
Back post stitches are made like front post stitches but from the back, which type will be indicated like this: BPsl-st, BPsc, BPdc and so on
V – V stitch
1dc, ch2, 1dc all in the same stitch
Picot
Picots can be made in different ways. In this pattern you will use two different types of picots and also a special one marked with a ⭐︎. You will know which one to use by the number and letter next to the stitch:
Number = the number next to the picot will indicate how many chains you make
Letter = a or b will indicate which type of picot to use
a = a picot ”a” means that you sl st through the first ch
b = a picot ”b” means that you sl st through the top of the stitch underneath, in the two ”legs” that you see
Picot marked with a ⭐︎ is a picot2b but it is used to fasten the vines and tendrils (ends 40/41/42) and therefore you make it a little different. Like this: after making the ch2 you will do a sl st in the indicated st and then finish the picot as normal.
For example:
Pattern writes: picot3a
You crochet: ch3 and sl st in the first of the 3 ch’s
Pattern writes: picot2b
You crochet: ch2 and sl st through the top of the stitch underneath
Popcorn
Make 5 dc in the same stitch, remove your hook and place it in the first dc, pick up your loop and pull through, close with ch1
Toffee Popcorn
This is the same a regular popcorn, however with the small difference that you will change colour for the middle/3rd dc. To do this as smoothly as possible, you change to your second colour before completing the 2nd dc, and change back to your first colour before completing the 3rd dc – then continue as normal. Cut the thread of your second colour and fasten off.
FPdc2tog – front post two double crochet together
This stitch is made just like a dc2tog but in the front post
tr3tog – three treble crochet together
This stitch is made like a dc2tog but with three trebles crochets
Dc3tog – three double crochet together
This stitch is made like a dc2tog but with three double crochets
BPdc2tog – two back post double crochet together
This stitch is made like a dc2tog but in the back post
Dc4tog – four double crochet together
This stitch is made like a dc2tog but with four double crochets
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Downloads in other languages.
Part 1.
The Butterfly Effect CAL 2019 – Part 1.
This is the US version. All other languages are downloadable on the bottom of this document.
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With yarn A make a magic circle, ch1 and make 8 sc
rnd 1 (A) – start in any sc
[3dcCL, ch2] x8
– 8 clusters, 8 ch2-sp
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rnd 2 (B) – start around cl
[FPsc around CL, 2 sc in ch2-sp] x8
– 8 FPsc, 16 sc
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rnd 3 (C) – start in any FPsc
*hdc, 2 dc, ch2, 2 dc, hdc, sc, ch1, sc; rep from * til end
– 16 dc, 8 hdc, 8 sc, 4 ch2-sp, 4 ch1-sp
rnd 4 (D) – start in any ch1-sp
*(hdc, 2 dc, ch2, 2 dc, hdc) in ch1-sp, sk sc, BPsc in the next 3 sts, (sc, ch2, sc) in ch2-sp, BPsc in the next 3 sts, sk sc; rep from * til end
– 16 dc, 8 hdc, 8 sc, 8 ch2-sp, 24 BPsc
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rnd 5 (E) – start in any ch2-sp in between sc
*(hdc, 2 dc, picot3a, 2 dc, hdc) in the ch2-sp, sk sc, BPhdc in the next 4 sts, BPsc in the next 2 sts, (sc, ch2, sc) in the ch2-sp, BPsc in the next 2 sts, BPhdc in the next 4 sts, sk sc; rep from * til end
– 16 dc, 8 hdc, 8 sc, 16 BPsc, 32 BPhdc, 4
For the next rnd you are only working in the marked ch2-sps from rnd 3 and 5 shown in the pictures above. The yellow stitch markers shows the ch2-sp from rnd 3; in which you are starting. The green stitch markers shows the ch2-sp from rnd 5.
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rnd 6 (D) – start in ch2-sp from rnd 3 – please note that the FPdc in this rnd are more like dc around the chains however they both look and act like FPdc’s and therefore they are written as FPdc
*FPdc around ch2-sp from rnd 3, ch4, FPdc in the same ch2-sp and place the ch4 behind the picot3a made in rnd 5, ch4, V in ch2-sp from rnd 5, ch4; rep from * til end
– 8 FPdc, 4 V sts, 8 ch4-sp
rnd 10 (D) – start in any corner ch2-sp
*(hdc, dc, ch2, dc, hdc), sc in the next 8 sts (be careful to not skip the first hidden stitch), hdc, FPtr around the FPdc from rnd 6, sk BPdc, dc, 3 dc, (dc, picot3a, dc), 3 dc, dc, FPtr around FPdc from rnd 6, sk BPdc, hdc, sc in the next 8 sts; rep from * til end
per side – 4 hdc, 12 dc, 16 sc, ch2-sp, picot3a, 2 FPtr
rnd 12 (A) – start in any corner ch2-sp -in this rnd you will only crochet in the chain spaces and skip all stitches-
*(2dcCL, ch1, 2dcCL, ch2, 2dcCL, ch1, 2dcCL), ch6, (2dcCL, ch1, 2dcCL) in ch1-sp, ch5, (2dcCL, ch1, 2dcCL) in ch1-sp, ch6; rep from * til end
per side – 8 2dcCL, 4 ch1-sp, 2 ch6-sp, 1 ch5-sp, 1 ch2-sp
rnd 13 (C) – start in any corner ch2-sp
*(2 dc, 1 tr, ch2, 1 tr, 2 dc), FPdc around CL, dc in ch-sp, FPdc around CL, (4 dc, tr, ch1, tr, 4 dc) in ch6-sp, FPdc around CL, dc in ch-sp, FPdc around CL,
Please note that now you will crochet in rnd 11 and in the ch5 on the back from rnd 12 ( although not at the same time)
sk 2 sts, BPsc in rnd 11, [dc in ch5, BPdc in rnd 11] x 2, (tr, picot3a, tr) in ch5, [BPdc in rnd 11, dc in ch5] x 2, BPsc in rnd 11, sk 2 sts
Please note that you are now back crocheting in rnd 12
FPdc around CL, dc in ch-sp, FPdc around CL, (4 dc, tr, ch1, tr, 4 dc) in ch6-sp, FPdc around CL, dc in ch-sp, FPdc around CL; rep from * til end
per side – 8 FPdc, 28 dc, 8 tr, 2 BPsc, 4 BPdc, 1 picot3a, 2 ch1-sp, 1 ch2-sp
Part 2.
The Butterfly Effect CAL 2019 – Part 2.
This is the US version. All other languages are downloadable on the bottom of this document.
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rnd 19 (B) – start in any corner ch3-sp
*(2 sc, ch2, 2 sc), sc in the next 7 sts, sc in the ch-sp,
For the flowered section you will crochet in the sc on top of the picot and in the ch-sp behind the picot from rnd 17 and skip the ch-sp between the sc:
[sc, dc in ch-sp] x 3, sk ch2, in sc on top of the picot6a do the following (sc, (dc, ch2, dc) in ch-sp behind, sc), sk ch2, [dc in ch-sp, sc] x 3,
After the flowered section you are back to crocheting in rnd 18 again, starting in the ch-sp
sc, sc in the next 4 sts, sc in ch-sp, (sc, ch2, sc) in the sc catching the picot, sc in ch-sp, sc in the next 4 sts, sc in ch-sp,
You should be at the second flower bud section at this point:
[sc, dc in ch-sp] x 3, sk ch2, (sc, (dc, ch2, dc) in ch-sp behind, sc) in sc on top of the picot6a, sk ch2, [dc in ch-sp, sc] x 3,
sc in ch-sp, sc in the next 7 sts; rep from * til end
per side –50 sc, 16 dc, 4 ch2-sp
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rnd 20 (E) – start in any corner ch2-sp
*(3 dc, ch2, 3 dc), sk 2 sts, BPdc in the next 6 sts, BPhdc, BPsc, ch2, sk 8 sts, (2dcCL, ch2, 2dcCL) in ch2-sp, ch2, sk 8 sts, BPsc in the next 7 sts, (sc, ch2, sc) in ch2-sp, BPsc in the 7 sts, ch1 and turn your work around
From wrong side
sc in next 5 sts, sl st in the next 2 sts, sk 1 st, sl st in ch2, ch1, sk 1 st, sl st in the next 2 sts, sc in the next 5 sts, ch1 and turn your work again
From right side
hdc, dc, 2 dc, hdc, sc, sk 2 sl sts, (3 dc, ch2, 3 dc) around ch2-sp from beginning of rnd 20, sk 2 sl sts, sc, hdc, 2dc, dc, (hdc, sl st), sl st below around the last BPsc to bring it down to same level like the other side, ch2,
Sk 8 sts, (2dcCL, ch2, 2dcCL) in ch2-sp, ch2, sk 8 sts, BPsc, BPhdc, BPdc in the next 6 sts, sk 2 sts; rep from * til end
per side –4 2dcCL, 8 ch2-sp, 18 dc, 4 hdc, 2 sc, 12 BPdc, 2 BPhdc, 2 BPsc (only including the top stitches)
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rnd 21 (D) – start in any corner ch2-sp
*(dc, tr, ch2, tr, dc), BPdc in the next 3 sts, BPhdc in the next 7 sts, BPsc, 3 sc in ch2-sp, FPsc around CL, (sc, ch2, sc) in ch-sp, FPsc around CL, 3 sc in the ch2-sp,
BPsc in the next 5 sts starting in the hdc, sk st, FPtr around ch2-sp from rnd 17, BPsc in the next 3 sts, (sc, dc, ch2, dc, sc) in ch-sp, BPsc in the next 3 sts, FPtr around ch2-sp from rnd 17 made in colour F, sk st, BPsc in the next 5 sts,
3 sc in ch2-sp, FPsc around CL, (sc, ch2, sc) in ch-sp, FPsc around CL, 3 sc in the ch2-sp, BPsc, BPhdc in the next 7 sts, BPdc in the next 3 sts; rep from * til end
per side –18 sc, 4 dc, 2tr, 6 BPdc, 14 BPhdc, 18 BPsc, 2 FPtr, 4 FPsc, 4 ch2-sp
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rnd 24 (D) – start in any corner ch2-sp
*(2 hdc, ch2, 2 hdc), BPsc in the next 6 sts, BPdc in the next 6 sts, sc in the next 4 sts, sc in next st AND in 11th st from rnd 21 directly underneath going through the st from rnd 21 first, sc in the next 2 sts, sc in ch4, sc in rnd 21 behind your work in the st just before the CL sts from rnd 22, sc in the st directly after the CL sts in the same rnd,
Now jump up to the 6hdc ch-sp before the mid of the side
BPsc, BPhdc, BPdc in the next 3 sts, BPhdc, BPsc in the next 9 sts, (sc, ch2, sc) in ch-sp, BPsc in the next 9 sts, BPhdc, BPdc in the next 3 sts, BPhdc, BPsc, sc in the st before the CL sts in rnd 22, sc in the st directly after the CL sts in the same rnd,
Now jump back up to rnd 23, start in the 1st of the 13 hdc in the ch9-sp
sc in the next 2 sts, sc in 11th st from the corner in rnd 21 AND in the next st in rnd 23, sc in the next 4 sts, BPdc in the next 6 sts, BPsc in the next 6 sts; rep from * til end
per side –4 hdc, 32 BPsc, 4 BPhdc, 18 BPdc, 21 sc, 2 ch2,
You are finished, well done!
Crochet Chart
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Downloads in other languages.
Part 3.
The Butterfly Effect CAL 2019 – Part 3.
This is the US version. All other languages are downloadable on the bottom of this document.
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rnd 25 (G) – start in any corner -In this rnd do not crochet your ch12 too tightly, even so this rnd might seem tight but it will sort itself out later on.-
*(Dc, 2 tr, ch3, 2 tr, dc), ch12, sc in top of ch1-sp,
Here you will crochet around what looks like a half big petal to create an opened butterfly cocoon! So going down on the left side and coming back up on the right side thus returning to the sc on top of the ch1-sp
Right cocoon
Sc in bl of the next 7 sts, 4 dc around the left dc of the lower CL from rnd 22, 4 dc in the left dc of the 2dcCL from rnd 20, 2 dc in ch-sp from rnd 19, -this is where you should be going up the right side- sc in 1st dc made in the same ch-sp from rnd 19, sc, [picot2b, sc in the next 2 sts] x5, picot2b, sc, sc in sc that’s on top of the ch1-sp, FPsc around the st just made, ch12, (sc, ch2, sc) on top of middle ch2-sp, ch12,
Left cocoon
sc in top of ch1-sp, [Sc in the next 2 sts, picot2b] x3, sc, (dc, picot2b, 2 dc, picot2b, dc) in the left dc of the lower CL from rnd 22, (dc, picot2b, 3 dc) in the left dc of the 2dcCL from rnd 20, 3 hdc in ch-sp from rnd 19, -this is where you should be going up the right side- sc in 1st dc that’s made in the same ch-sp from rnd 19, sc in the next 5 sts, sc in bl of the next 7 sts, sc in sc that is on top of the ch1-sp, FPsc around the st just made, ch12; rep from * til end per side – 20 dc, 4 tr, 1 ch3-sp, 4 ch12-sp, 2 FPsc, 32 sc, 14 sc in bl, 12 picot2b, 2 ch2-sp, 3 hdc
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rnd 26 (G) – start in any corner
*(2 sc, hdc, dc, ch2, dc, hdc, 2 sc), sc in the next 3 sts, 16 sc in the ch12-sp,
FPsc around the FPsc from last rnd, 16 sc in the next ch12-sp, sk sc, (3 dc, ch1, 3 dc) in ch2-sp, sk sc, 16 sc in ch12-sp, FPsc around the FPsc from last rnd, 16 sc in ch12-sp, sc in the next 3 sts; rep from * til end
per side – 74 sc, 2 hdc, 8 dc, 1 ch2-sp, 1 ch1-
sp, 2 FPsc
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rnd 27 (F) – start in any corner
*(2trCL, ch1, 2dcCL, ch1, 2trCL), 2 tr, 2 dc, sc, dc, 3 dc, FPdc around the
middle tr st in corner below from rnd 25 (i.e. 2nd tr) do not sk the st behind fpdc, 3 dc, dc, hdc, sc in the next 10 sts, (sl st, ch6, 2trCL), [tr2tog] x 2, FPtr around FPsc from previous rnd (around, NOT in the FPsc st), sk st behind fptr, dc, dc2tog, hdc, sc in the next 7 sts, sk st, 3 dc, (2 dc, hdc), sk st, FPsc, BPdc in the next 3 sts, (dc, sc, dc) in ch-sp, BPdc in the next 3 sts, FPsc, sk st, (hdc, 2 dc), 3 dc, sk st, sc in the next 7 sts, hdc, dc2tog, dc, FPtr around the FPsc from previous rnd (around, NOT in the FPsc st), sk st, [tr2tog] x 2, (2trCL, ch6, sl st) sc in the next 10 sts, hdc, dc, 3 dc, FPdc around the middle tr st in corner below from rnd 25 (i.e 1st tr) do not sk the st behind fpdc, 3 dc, dc, sc, 2dc, 2 tr; rep from * til end
per side – 4 2trCL, 1 2dcCL, 4 tr2tog, 2 dc2tog, 37 sc, 6 hdc, 34 dc, 4 tr, 6 BPdc, 2 ch6-sp, 2 ch1-sp, 2 FPtr, 2 FPdc, 2 FPsc, 2 sl st
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rnd 28 (F) – start in any corner, around the first CL
*FPdc around CL, 2 dc in ch1-sp, FPsc around CL, 2 dc in ch1-sp, FPdc
around CL, BPdc, BPhdc in the next 2 sts, BPdc, FPsc around sc, BPdc in the next 4 sts, FPsc around FPdc, BPdc in the next 5 sts, sk 2 sts, BPsc in the next 6 sts, sk 3 sts ink the sl st and ch6, ^^sk sl st and push ch6 to the back of your work and place 2 dc in between the sl st and the CL from rnd 27 i.e in the same st as the sl st and CL from rnd 27 are placed^^, (3 dc, picot2b, hdc) in CL st, (sc, hdc, 2 dc), 3 dc, FPsc around FPtr, 2 dc in the next 2 sts, sc, ch3, sk 7 sts, BPsc in the next 6 sts, FPsc, BPdc in the next 3 sts, FPdc, (2 dc, ch1, 2 dc), FPdc, BPdc in the next 3 sts, FPsc, BPsc in the next 6 sts, ch3, sk 7 sts, sc, 2 dc in the next 2 sts, FPsc around FPtr, 3 dc, (2dc, hdc, sc), (hdc, dc, picot2b, 2 dc), sk ch6, 2 dc in the same st and in between the ch6 and CL from rnd 27, sk 3 sts ink the sl st, BPsc in the next 6 sts, sk 2 sts, BPdc in the next 5 sts, FPsc around the FPdc from previous rnd, BPdc in the next 4 sts, FPsc around sc, BPdc, BPhdc in the next 2 sts, BPdc; rep from * til end
per side – 4 FPdc, 36 dc, 9 FPsc, 4 BPhdc, 28 BPdc, 24 BPsc, 2 picot2b, 4 hdc, 4 sc, 2 ch3-sp, 1 ch1-sp
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Downloads in other languages.
Part 4.
The Butterfly Effect CAL 2019 – Part 4.
This is the US version. All other languages are downloadable on the bottom of this document.
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rnd 29 (A) – start making your corner which will be made behind your work over 2 chain spaces found on each side of the the middle 2dcCL from rnd 27
*(2trCL, ch1, 2trCL) in ch-sp, ch2, sk st, (2trCL, ch1, 2trCL) in ch-sp, ch12, (2 dc, hdc, 2 sc, sc in picot2b from previous rnd and in the ch-sp, 4 sc) in ch6-sp, ch5, FPdc around FPsc, ch2, (2dcCL, ch1, 2dcCL, ch1, 2dcCL, ch1, 2dcCL) in ch3-sp, ch5, (2dcCL, ch1, 2dcCL, ch2, 2dcCL, ch1, 2dcCL) in ch1-sp, ch5, (2dcCL, ch1, 2dcCL, ch1, 2dcCL, ch1, 2dcCL) in ch3-sp, ch2, FPdc around FPsc, ch5, (4 sc, sc in picot2b from previous rnd and the ch-sp, 2 sc, hdc, 2 dc) in ch6-sp, ch12; rep from * til end
per side – 12 2trCL, 6 ch1-sp, 2 ch12-sp, 5 ch2-sp, 7 dc, 2 hdc, 9 sc, 3 ch5-sp, 2 FPdc
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rnd 30 (B) – start in any corner
*(2 dc, tr, ch2, tr, 2 dc), FPdc around CL, dc in ch-sp, FPdc around CL, (8 hdc, dc, ch1, dc, 8 hdc) in ch12-sp, tr in the next 2 sts, (tr, picot2b, tr), dc, hdc, sc in the next 4 sts, (hdc, 2 dc), 7 hdc around ch5-sp, FPhdc around FPdc, 3 hdc in ch2-sp, [FPhdc around CL, hdc in ch1-sp] x3, FPhdc around CL, (4 hdc, FPtr around the FPsc from rnd 28, 4 hdc) in ch5-sp, FPdc around CL, dc in ch-sp, FPdc around CL,
(dc, tr, ch1, tr, dc) in ch2-sp, FPdc around CL, dc in ch-sp, FPdc around CL, (4 hdc, FPtr around the FPsc from rnd 28, 4 hdc) in ch5-sp, [FPhdc around CL, hdc in ch1-sp] x3, FPhdc around CL, 3 hdc in ch2-sp, FPhdc around FPdc, 7 hdc around ch5-sp, (2 dc, hdc), sc in the next 4 sts, hdc, dc, (tr, picot2b, tr), tr in the next 2 sts, (8 hdc, dc, ch1, dc, 8 hdc) in ch12-sp, FPdc around CL, dc around ch1-sp, FPdc around CL; rep from * til end
per side – 20 dc, 12 tr, 2 ch2-sp, 8 FPdc, 78 hdc, 3 ch1-sp, 2 picot2b, 8 sc, 10 FPhdc, 2 FPtr
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rnd 31 (C) – start in any corner
*(3 tr, ch3, 3 tr), [2 tr, tr in the next 2 sts] x2, 2 dc in the next 2 sts, 2 hdc, sc in the next 6 sts, sl st through ch-sp and picot2b coming up – place a stitch marker in the st just after the picot2b as it might be hard to locate after the sl st is made – sc in the next 4 sts, FPsc around the 2nd FPsc from the corner end of rnd 28 AND in the next st, sc in the next 7 sts, now continue where you placed the stitch marker – sc in the next 6 sts, BPsc in the next 4 sts, sc in the hdc (in the first 2trCL from rnd 27) from rnd 28 AND in the next st in the current rnd, sc in the next 2 sts, hdc in the next 2 sts, 2 dc, 2 tr around the next st, ch3, FPsc around the FPhdc, BPsc in the next 14 sts, FPsc around the FPtr, BPhdc in the next 3 sts, BPdc in the next 3 sts, BPtr in the next 3 sts,
(tr, dtr, ch3, dtr, tr) in ch-sp, BPtr in the next 3 sts, BPdc in the next 3 sts, BPhdc in the next 3 sts, FPsc around the FPtr, BPsc in the next 14 sts, FPsc around the FPhdc, ch3, 2 tr around the next st, 2 dc, hdc in the next 2 sts, sc in the next 2 sts, sc in the 8th st (hdc) from rnd 28 counted after the FPsc AND in the next st, BPsc in the next 4 sts, sc in the next 6 sts, sk picot2b and push it to the back of your work and continue in the next st, sc in the next 7 sts, fpsc around the first FPsc from the corner start of rnd 28 AND in the next st, sc in the next 4 sts, turn back and pick up the picot2b and the ch1-sp and sl st through both of them, sc in the next 6 sts, 2 hdc, 2 dc in the next 2 sts, [tr in the next 2 sts, 2 tr] x2; rep from * til end
per side – 28 tr, 4 ch3-sp, 12 dc, 8 hdc, 2 sl st, 56 sc, 36 BPsc, 4 FPsc, 6 BPhdc, 6 BPdc, 6 BPtr, 2 dtr
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rnd 32 (D) – start in any corner
*(sc, hdc, dc, ch2, dc, hdc, sc), BPdc in the next 8 sts, BPhdc in the next 4 sts, BPsc, ch3, sk 4 sts, sc in the next 6 sts, sk 13 sts or the little mini cocoon made in previous rnd, sc in the next 6 sts, your next st should be the BPsc, hdc, (hdc, dc), 3 dc, (dc, hdc), FPsc, sk st, hdc, 2 dc in the next 3 sts, 2 tr in the next 2 sts, picot2b, (tr, dc), (hdc, 2 sc) in the ch3-sp, FPsc around FPsc, sk 1 st, BPsc in the next 10 sts,
The next part is tricky so pay close attention:
in the next st you will do a sc2tog with this st and (sk 5 sts) the next one (i.e. there will be 5 skipped sts in between), now do a sc2tog in the 2 sts that end up next to each other going down toward the fp sts, sk the next 2 sts, FPsc around FPsc
ch10, sk the 8 unworked sts and in top ch-sp make (2 sc, ch2, 2 sc), ch10, sk 11 sts
Again this part is tricky but in reverse so pay close attention:
FPsc around FPsc, now you’re crocheting the two sides together, sk 1 st on each side, sc2tog in the next 2 sts that end up next to each other when pushing the sides together, sc2tog in the next 2 sts again next to each other, BPsc in the next 10 sts, sk st, FPsc, (2 sc, hdc) in ch3-sp, (dc, tr, picot2b), 2 tr in the next 2 sts, 2 dc in the next 3 sts, hdc, sk st, FPsc, (hdc, dc), 3 dc, (dc, hdc), hdc, sc in the next 6 sts, sk 13 sts or the little mini cocoon made in previous rnd, sc in the next 6 sts, ch3, sk 4 sts, BPsc, BPhdc in the next 4 sts, BPdc in the next 8 sts; rep from * til end
per side – 36 sc, 14 hdc, 26 dc, 2 ch2, 16 BPdc, 8 BPhdc, 22 BPsc, 2 ch3, 6 FPsc, 10 tr, 2 picot2b, 4 sc2tog, 2 ch10-sp
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rnd 33 (E) – start in any corner
*(hdc, dc, tr, ch2, tr, dc, hdc), sc in the next 16 sts, sc in ch3-sp, sc in the 2 middle sts of the 4 unworked sts from rnd 31 i.e skipping the 1st and the 4th, sc in the next 16 sts, (dc, picot2b, dc), hdc, sc in the next 2 sts, FPsc around FPsc, sk st, sc in the next 10 sts, BPdc around the last worked st, sk picot from previous rnd, BPdc, picot2b, sc in the next 4 sts, FPsc around FPsc, sk st, sc in the next 9 sts, dc3tog finishing in the FPsc,
now you will work up the middle in sts from rnd 31 leaving the ch from rnd 32 alone
tr in the next 2 sts, dc in the next 6 sts, sk the 2 sc from rnd 32,
(4 dc, ch2, 4 dc) in ch2-sp from rnd 32, sk the 2 sc from rnd 32, dc in the next 6 sts, tr in the next 2 sts, dc3tog starting in the FPsc, sc in the next 10 sts, FPsc, sk st, sc in the next 3 sts, picot2b, sk picot from previous rnd, BPdc in the next 2 sts, sc in the last worked st, sc in the next 10 sts, FPsc, sc in the next 2 sts, hdc, (dc, picot2b, dc), sc in the next 16 sts, sc in the 2 middle sts of the 4 unworked sts from rnd 31 i.e skipping the 1st and 4th, sc in ch3-sp, sc in the next 16 sts; rep from * til end
per side – 4 hdc, 26 dc, 6 tr, 2 ch2-sp, 121 sc, 4 picot2b, 4 FPsc, 4 BPdc, 2 3dctog
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